As another week passes us by, we find Toad Hollow Photography looking in all corners of the internet for links to tutorials, reviews, special features and great photography to share here with everyone.  This week’s list contains a very wide variety of subjects that cover most popular genres of photography, created by some of the finest artists and writers working in the field today.  We really hope you enjoy these links as much as the Toad did in curating and bringing this list to you.

Photography Tutorials

How To Use Reflectors For Better Portraiture: Part One | Part Two – a two-part feature article shows you how to use inexpensive light reflectors to create stunning portraits in daylight.  The second part shares a more advanced technique using two reflectors that creates key and fill light, the same as is done using strobes during a portrait shoot.

Five Tips to Help Your Outdoor Adventure Photography Experience – this well thought out article covers many aspects of outdoor photography, with some key insights and tips that can really help you as you travel to exotic places and have terrific adventures.  There are many factors to a successful session, and one of them is being able to enjoy the experience while coming away with the shots you need.

How to shoot super detailed macro photographs with the help of an Arduino and a bunch of LEDs – concepts and technology constantly evolve in the world of photography when ideas or hardware changes occur, creating new and exciting techniques that can be considered game changers for certain fields of photography.  This article discusses one such concept, sharing in brief detail a very complex method of capturing incredible detail in macro photography of static objects.  Links to a detailed article is included for those wishing to follow through on this interesting paradigm.

How to Get Perfect Color in Your Photography From Camera to Computer – color management is a key concept for making consistently great and professional looking photographs.  This video tutorial is just over 10 minutes in length and takes us through some very insightful tips on how best to accomplish this.

This is how you light up a climber on a cliff with speedlights attached to drones – this is a very advanced concept that involves utilizing new drone technology in a way never really thought of before.  The results are astonishing inasmuch as they help overcome height barriers when trying to light a subject by using a drone to hover as subjects climb a mountain.

Reviews – Comparing Noise Reduction Processes

The Ultimate Comparison of Nine Noise Reduction Methods for Night Photography – this comprehensive article compares and discusses various noise reduction processes available today.  Sample images are included at every step, giving you a visual reference to the detailed and technical steps explained in this extensive piece.

Special Features

From Leeds to London: portraits of English cities in the 1970s – in pictures – life in England in the 1970’s looked quite different from how it does today, and through the magic of photography we find ourselves heading back in time to check it out.  This special feature shares a terrific collection of photos taken some 40 years ago, featuring terrific vignettes of life and the architecture of the region during this time.

This Photographer Placed Strobes Inside Aerobatic Planes – I’d do this in a heartbeat, without a second thought, and talk about having the best job in the world.  In this special feature, photographer Dan Vojtech joins the Red Bull aerobatic flying team, the Flying Bulls, as he captured truly amazing images of these daredevils in action.

Check Out These Amazing Neon Photos Of Tokyo’s Exciting Nightlife – an amazing set of photographs featuring the bustling city of Tokyo at night is showcased in this great post.  The neon colors captured with the ambient light of this vibrant city really sets off the shots, producing a series that takes on an ethereal sense.

Just Great Photography

The Bear – this post comes to us from Bob Lussier who happened upon a scene that not many nature photographers get to see; that is a grizzly bear having a nice leisurely breakfast several hundred yards away.  Bob comes home from the experience with a terrific set of images that show in great detail how beautiful these animals are in their natural habitat.

Cuddly Cubs – if you love bears half as much as I do, you will be amazed at this incredible photo from Ron Niebrugge.  A pair of delightful bear cubs lie together in their habitat as Ron reaches in with his telephoto to capture an image that is sure to captivate your heart.

Tribute to Thomas Alva Edison – staircases make for terrific photography subjects, creating leading lines and geometrical shapes that lead the eye when shot from a low perspective looking straight up.  This shot from Jesús M. García features a terrific staircase that takes on the shape of a lightbulb, thus the title of the image.

The Path – a beautiful reflection in the still waters of the lake offset the terrific natural leading line featured in the walking path that leads into the far distance in a vanishing point, as captured and shared here by Michael Criswell.  An interesting cloud formation lingers overhead while a burst effect from the sun as it crests the horizon adds a great element to this stunning image.

Chicago Nights – the city of Chicago at night pops from our screens in this terrific photograph from Ryan Millier.  Ryan’s processing techniques take on a bit of nostalgic feel, adding a great element to the architectural features explored in the frame.

178 – Dave Wares creates a terrific black-and-white shot with this composition, sharing a scene of a wooden boat sitting on the shore.  The shallow depth-of-focus helps to define the boat within the frame by helping it to jump out of the image against the soft backdrop of the waters it travels over on a daily basis.

EMERALD DRAGON – Beno Saradzic creates a stunning single toned panorama shot that features the city skyline of Hong Kong at night.  This wide frame is composed of several shots stitched together, delivering a picture with incredible detail and feel for those who love dramatic skylines.

Smoked – CJ Schmit brings the skyline of Milwaukee into relief for us in this great shot taken during the blue hour.  A fabulous cloud formation hanging overhead creates a strong point of interest in this shot, making a perfect foundation for the name that CJ has given this piece.

Marina Dreamscape – the incredible fogs found in Dubai create ethereal moods in this elevated cityscape shot captured at night.  Daniel Cheong takes advantage of the feel of the night with diffused colors bleeding through the underlying fog to deliver a magical looking shot of this very dramatic city.

Lake Michigan in Monochrome – if you are a fan of the minimalistic and the abstract, you will love this set of three photos posted by Rachel Cohen.  Rachel’s shots focus on the scenes found at Lake Michigan, and her thoughtful processing of the shots as black-and-whites really highlights the contrasts found in the scenes.

The Owl and the Bee – such wonderful character is to be found in this lovely shot from Simon Roy that features a small owl perched atop a wooden fence as it stands on one leg.  To the right of the frame a cluster of flowers adds a dash of color, and the inquisitive viewer will also notice a tiny bee playing in the nectar.

Spirit Island – this is my favorite spot on earth, a remote spot that is not easy to access yet it reveals scenes of such beauty that they are nearly indescribable.  In this picture, Len Saltiel takes us into the heart of the Rockies in Canada where we get to see Spirit Island on a lovely day.

Mr. Grumpy – once again, we find that you simply cannot beat the incredible spirit and personality that owls tend to exhibit in their natural environs.  Leif Ipsen captures a terrific shot of an Eagle Owl as it stares back ever so intently at the lens, revealing the mood of this bird in a single glance.

The wonder of being – a veil of fog envelopes the Lake Bled landscape, revealing a glimpse of the ancient monastery that sits on a tiny island in the middle of the lake.  Uroš Demšar’s shot has an old-world feel to it in both the natural elements that grace the setting, along with the sympathetic processing applied to create the image.

After Sunset – Vancouver Island photographer Randy Hall shares a scene that depicts what makes this island so special.  Captured in the Parksville/Qualicum area of the island, this central region provides incredible shore themed shots, as showcased here in this picture taken just after sunset as the colors in the sky are still beautiful and the day fades to give way to night.

Face to Face – there is something just captivating about this image that features an old weathered car in what appears to be a rural setting in the middle of night.  Alfon No’s shot looks to have been a challenge to capture, using artificial lighting to illuminate key aspects of the shot and create a strong feeling of curiosity in the viewer.

I ❤️ Tracks – Rob Hanson shares a uniquely created image with this picture, using a railroad track as a natural leading line into and around the frame for the viewer.  He creates a mirrored image of the main composition here that once combined, creates a picture that will make your mind jump the proverbial tracks as you explore it.

Autumn Journey – with autumn colors on display everywhere, a steam train works its way across a trestle in the distance in this mesmerizing image from Hidetoshi Kikuchi.  The body of water that the trestle crosses is full of gentle ripples, creating a muted reflection of the bridge and delivering a shot reminiscent of years gone by.

Here Lies Alfred – Andy Hooker (LensScaper) takes us into an overgrown cemetery that has centuries of interesting history interned within its grounds.  The picture he takes is converted to black-and-white to accent the drama and the sense of history, and his article that accompanies the shot does a great job of framing the picture in the annals of history.

“Antigua Industria” – “Old Industry” – a long abandoned industrial site forms the basis for this great shot that is full of artistic tension.  Aitor de la Fuente’s photograph is composed of a water channel created by stone walls that look to be ancient in origin, delivering a picture that is sure to leave us all wondering about the history of the location.

Kayaks and Boats, Wallowa Lake, Oregon – Mark Paulson shares a shot that features a lake with a grouping of kayaks and boats in the foreground to act as an anchor into the frame.  The beautiful landscape that surrounds the setting adds great context to this shot that also benefits from a lone man standing on the dock surveying the surroundings.

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Whether you just got the need to start shooting film, or you decided that you want to digitize those old film slides that your parents shot when you were young, you can actually do it at home, for basically zero cost. Yes, there are flatbed scanners, there are drum scanners, but those cost money, and according to many reviews don’t provide enough detail when compared to good old DSLR quality, which you hopefully have laying around somewhere at home. So let’s take a look at how to digitize old film using your digital camera and a few pieces of material that you probably have lying around.

Now, most developed film you’ll get is either negative or positive but it is all translucent. Meaning that you’ll have to get it backlit before capturing it properly. That is the reason this requires some makeshift tools.

Part One – The Setup for Digitizing Old Film

What You Need to Digitize Old Film

• Paper.
• Pencil.
• Ruler (preferably longer than 20 cm).

• Scalpel (or any sharp tool that is good enough for cutting paper, scissors would do too, but I’m used to a scalpel).
• Glue.
• Sticky Tape (not Gaffer/Duct tape though, since it will rip paper to shreds).
• Cardboard sheet (I repurposed an old folder for this).

• Camera.
• Lens.
• Tripod.
• A light source (used my flash, but you can use any light really).

• Lens cloth (to remove fingerprints from the film and such).
• A few pegs (minimum of 4; paper clips will damage the film, that is why pegs are better in this case).
• Something to hold the rolled up film: I used two cups, where the handles served as holders.

Step 1

Once you have all the supplies, it is time to draw the outlines. I used the following dimensions to cut out the sheet of cardboard.

Note, that this hole is big enough for a medium format film. You can use the same size, or downscale for 35mm. There is nothing hard about determining the size of the cutout really.

The hole needs to be as big as the frame + some margin, and the walls around it need to be thick enough so it doesn’t bend that easily. The space between the bend line and the frame is around 10 cm from the top of the frame (this is to align with my flash height), but you can alter it to the height of your light.

The space below the bend line is used to stick tape and attach the whole thing to the table so it remains stable.

Step 2

• Glue the two sheets together with liquid glue, but do so only below the frame hole (in this case the part of the cardboard which is 4 cm high above the bend line), and leave the rest unglued so you can put the film between the pieces.
• You can also use a stapler or whatever you want to keep the two pieces together. I used glue because I had it sitting around in my drawers.

Step 3

• Once the glue has set, cut a triangle, about 3-4 cm in height from the right angle part of the sheet of cardboard you have left, and use it as a shim (sticky tape will do to hold it in place) to hold the film holster at 90 degrees relative to the table.
• Now use sticky tape to tape down the holster to the table. This is important because you don’t want it moving around when you have set the focus of the camera. Use sticky tape on both sides of the holster.

Step 4

• Now carefully place the film between the two sheets of the holster, securing it with pegs. Don’t use paper clips, they will crumple the film, since they provide pressure to small areas in different places and directions, unlike pegs which press equally over larger surfaces on the same spot.
• Use some heavy but smooth objects to hold the roll as straight as possible without damaging it. If the film is pre-cut into slides, you have no problem with the roll folding back on its own, since there is none.

Step 5

• Place the light behind the film, but make sure it is not hitting the film at an angle. Make everything line up perfectly, so the light is as even as possible.
• Just leave about 20 cm between the light and the film. Especially if is a tungsten bulb – it can overheat and melt the film and you’ll ruin it.

Step 6

• Take one regular white piece of paper, fold it twice on the shorter sides, so it makes a П shape. Then place it between the light and the film, in order to diffuse the light and have an evenly lit surface.
• The П shape will help it stand on its own, but if you want you can use sticky tape to hold it in place.

To be continued in part two of this article, where we discuss on how to photograph the slide and post-process the image..

Whether you’re shooting film or digital, composition has been around far longer than photography and is, of course, one of the pillars in this form of art. This Advanced Composition Guide by Photzy will let you into the techniques and tips of how to become a master and captivate any audience!

Part Two – Photographing and Post Processing Your Old Film

Now, when the film is in position and properly lit, it is time to photograph it, and make the final image in post processing.

For this purpose, you’ll need your camera, tripod, lens, and some focusing skills. Pick a lens that has the smallest focus distance, or a lens that is capable of focusing close enough for the film to fill most (or whole) frame of the camera.

Step 1

Set the camera on the tripod, and position it as close as the lens would focus. Tip: make sure that the camera is not angled towards any side – you need to be parallel with the film as much as possible. Use the cutout as a reference and fine tune your setup.

The more precise you are, the less correction you’ll have to do.

Step 2

With the backlight off, take a test shot. If the ambient light is too strong, make sure to tone it down as much as possible, and correct the settings in the camera to the point that you get a dark frame.

But make sure that you have the shutter speed faster than 1/200, ISO 100, and the rest is compensated with the F/stop. Set the white balance to one of the presets, preferably to daylight. Or set it to tungsten/fluorescent if the light is of that type.

Step 3

Turn on the back light and take a test shot. If the image starts to clip, close down the aperture up until f/8. If the image still clips, increase the shutter speed. If you are at maximum shutter speed at f/8, start moving the light further away. Once you have a slightly overexposed image but far from clipping, take your final shot.

Step 4

For the next frames, just move the film, check the focus, and take the shot. Repeat until you run out of film.

Whether it’s film or digital, all photographers aspire to mastering and Understanding Light and really learning how to use it. This guide is for those who want to discover the secrets to controlling, manipulating and ‘reading’ light used by the professionals.

Step 5

Load the images in Lightroom or Photoshop Camera RAW. Since most likely you’ll be dealing with negatives, you’ll have to do some blind edits first. But for now, make sure all the images are there, that the focus is correct and that everything is nice and sharp.

If you’re looking to get the best possible results with your newly digital files, then you might want to consider a quick refresher course in Lightroom like Phil Steele’s online course. It will only take you an evening to complete and you will get some great results for projects like this. Take a look at it here.

Step 6

Select all the images, do lens profile correction, remove any chromatic aberration (this is important here, since when you invert the colors, you won’t be able to correct the aberration properly), do noise reduction if necessary (there should be no noise due to low ISO and exposure to the right).

Also, don’t forget to correct the exposure to the proper exposure now, since you overexposed the image a tad to begin with (this is to get a cleaner image).

Step 7

Take the White Balance color picker tool, and click on the outer part of the film (basically where the holes are perforated for the camera to wind it) this will remove the yellow tones from the film and correct the white balance properly.

Step 8

Load the images in Photoshop (open from Camera RAW, or Edit In Photoshop from Lightroom). On each image, select the background layer (the only layer), and hit CTRL+I. This will invert the colors, effectively bringing the image to positive.

Step 9

Now select Camera RAW Filter, and develop your image properly. You might need to play with the HSL slider a little due to the fact that the film can get some color cast/fringing from age, elements, or simply from the light itself.

While you are here, use the new guided transform tool, and select all the borders of the frame, to transform the image to perfection.

Step 10

Clone/Heal scratches, dust, dirt and other imperfections from the transfer, and save the final picture.

And there you have it, you have successfully turned analog pictures to digital, with excellent quality.

Summary

This guide is meant for people that want to make the most of their analog shots, or just want to have digital copies of their analog slides. If you live in a country like mine, where photo studios that do developing and scanning use technology older than myself, it becomes the only option.

It took me around 2 hours to complete building the setup, shoot 1 roll of medium format film and edit the shots.

Whether it’s film or digital, all photographers aspire to mastering and Understanding Light and really learning how to use it. This guide is for those who want to discover the secrets to controlling, manipulating and ‘reading’ light used by the professionals.

Further Resources on Film Photography

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With everyone owning an iPhone these days, photography has become more accessible than ever. Editing, applying filters, taking that perfect photograph, all whilst on-the-go has become one of out favourite past-times. This article will show you 7 wonderful iPhone apps to help you in your photographic endeavours.

If you speak to anyone who’s serious about iPhone photography, VCSO Cam is more than likely to come up during the conversation.

With an extremely loyal and lively community; complete with VSCO’s journal feature, allowing you, as a photographer to map out your artistic journey, your progression and style all being mapped out in a chronological journal, complete with social media functions.

Alongside this there’s VSCO’s extremely vast and powerful toolset, it’s definitely a cut above the rest in terms of photographic and editing power.

Whether you’re using an iPhone (or any other Android or Windows phone) getting composition right will ensure your images stand out and you are gaining skills and improving your overall understanding of photography. Check out this fundamental guide by Photzy on “Understanding Composition“.

Probably the most well-known photography app there is, Instagram is now considered amongst the classic starter apps for anyone new to iPhone photography. With its great accessibility and ease-of-use, Instagram has become a mainstay of photographic apps.

Well known for its vast amount of filters, each of which add that special something to your photographs.

Also, Instagram was one of the first photography apps to popularize sharing your content, whether or not that is to Twitter or Facebook.

I believe that it is this feeling of community that has kept Instagram at the forefront of photographic apps, the ease at which one can comment, share and like other’s photos is uncontested, alongside Instagram’s sleek and effortless-to-use interface, making it an all-around go-to app for up-and-coming photographers.

Motivational quotes and posts have saturated the internet in recent years, with the quotes usually placed a top a picture of a sunset, or something rather inspirational.

Have you, however, ever wanted to create your own inspirational/motivational image, complete with an inspiring quote? Well, now you can, with Piclab HD.

Piclab HD allows its users to apply a quote or saying of their choice onto a photograph of their very own. Complete with a large amount of fonts and complete control over size, composition, rotation, opacity and color, alongside a vast amount of illustrative elements that can be applied on top of your image.

So when you find that perfect quote that you feel really sums up your travels, or your home town, or maybe you just feel that it fits that exquisite image you just took, Piclab is there to combine the two into a perfect combination.

No list of useful iPhone photography apps would be complete without the addition of Adobe’s very own app Photoshop Express. Photoshop is the go-to piece of editing software for arguably the large majority of photographers, it has retained its place as the leading expert in the editing.

Photoshop Express, of course cannot contain all the elements and power that the desktop version of Photoshop has, however, it does contain an extremely accessible and user-friendly interface, complete with its very own filters, all-in-all in contains the sleekness and professionalism one expects from Adobe.

In terms of apps that are packed out with incredible amounts of software and extreme variation in what the user can and cannot do editing wise, ProCamera8 really stands out.

ProCamera8 offers the user all the features of their native iPhone camera, plus a large range of additional tools to allow for more control over their photographs.

Features such as:

• Adjustable shooting grids,
• HDR mode,
• Manual exposure control
• Image stabilization.

PC8 allows the user to import images from your camera roll to edit with its software also, so previously taken photographs can be edited later on with the use of PC8. One drawback with using the iPhone camera or iPhone camera apps in general, is that the quality of the images suffers a great deal once the image is enlarged.

PC8 allows the user to adjust the size of the image and even save the image in the TIFF format, allowing for the image to be used later on for a poster, or piece of design intended for printing.

There are hundreds of apps intended for editing photographs, many of them offer the same small amount of features in terms of editing, often equal to very slight tweaks.

This is where Snapseed really holds its own, Snapseed’s incredible amount of editing options really makes it a cut above the rest in terms of hand-held editing power.

With such a large variety of editing options, filters and tweaking available via this app, one would believe that it must have a rather steep learning curve in terms of creating that perfect photograph.

Well, this is where you’re wrong, Snapseed’s interface is highly intuitive and one of its major selling points is how easy it is to use.

One of Snapseed’s more unique editing functions is its selective adjustment tool, allowing the user to edit one portion of the image, without tampering with the rest. Snapseed really is on the cutting edge of smartphone image editing technology, with one of the largest numbers of editing options available from any app.

Mextures is a photographic editing app with a primary focus, textures (if you hadn’t guessed by its name), allowing its users to apply and play with textures within their photographs. Applying textures is something that often comes later on in someone’s photographic journey.

Mextures does have a slight learning curve, but once you’re fully comfortable with its software your photographs will become exquisitely layered and unique to your personal vision and style.

Mextures does cater for beginners, it contains a variety of preset texture formulas – much like filters – for the user to use from the get-go.

Mextures if the perfect app for those who have used various other editing apps, one that may seem a little basic in their filter selection, or amount of offered editing styles.

I believe this is where Mextures is interesting, it allows the users to play around within a specific niche, and really master their unique and personal style.

Summary

So there you have it, iPhone apps designed for photographers or just folks who love taking, editing and sharing pictures.  There’s a whole load more but these are what I consider to be the top ones of the moment to get you started – each with their own unique powers.

Whether you’re using an iPhone (or any other Android or Windows phone) getting composition right will ensure your images stand out and you are gaining skills and improving your overall understanding of photography. Check out this fundamental guide by Photzy on “Understanding Composition“.

Further Resources

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In recent years the online dating game has changed, no longer do you have to fill out countless forms of detailed personal information, or go through some laborious process to find potential matches, all thanks to an app called Tinder, you may have heard of it? What Tinder does is streamline the dating process into a few simple categories, making it far easier to get on with meeting up with someone or to begin a conversation…but what if this kind of app was created for models and photographers? Well this is precisely what the folks over at Fstop have done.

Fstop is a matchmaking app much akin to Tinder, however instead of setting up matches between potential soul-mates, Fstop sets out to match up photographers, models, make-up artists, retouchers and stylists. The sign up process is very alike to most modern dating sites, with a few additional extras, the user can enter such information as: sex, height, weight, age, rate, body features and whether or not they have tattoos, and more. Fstop even allows the user to confirm their identity. The search process is very much the same, with each option able to be filtered out so you can find the right person for your job preference

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Much like Tinder one can press a little red ‘X’ to say that they do not want to work with that person and likewise they can press a little blue ‘✓’ to say that they do want to work with person, extremely straightforward. Once matched you can begin conversing with that person and potentially work with them on future projects.

As Fstop is working within an industry, one in which money is changing hands, they have a built-in payment service for members who wish to work together, a sort of middleman if you will. Once you have completed the work with the person of your choosing you can them pay them through the platform (this is optional however) and leave a review.

Why We Like The Fstop App

Fstop may not necessarily be anything original, however what Fstop is doing is taking something which before was a very convoluted drawn-out process and streamlining it, making it simple and quick, especially with its integrated payment system (which uses a service called Stripe, which is very secure) and large variety of description filters, so that you can find exactly the person you’re looking for. It is also mobile friendly, which a great bonus for those who are on the move and wish to find work quickly in a new location.

Of course Fstop is in its infancy and has yet to gain a large following, however for those working within any of its offered industries you may benefit from getting a head-start and creating your profile now. For those who live in larger more vibrant cities, Fstop may already have a large pool of users for you to begin conversing with and potentially meeting, however, for those who live in smaller, less say…cosmopolitan areas Fstop may not be all it can be, due to its small amount of active users within your area, however, if you’re willing to travel you can set Fstop’s location finder to 100 miles plus.

The Possible Downside to Fstop?

There are however minor worries in terms of those who pray on people, due to the fact Fstop is an app specifically designed for beautiful people to advertise their talent, their may be a few people who abuse this knowledge, however due to Fstop’s identity confirmation this can be avoided.

There’s many clear reasons why Fstop differs from its competitors, sites such as ModelMayhem for instance: It’s ridiculously simple, meaning one can find a possible match quicker than ever before. A vast amount of safeguards in place: Easily report suspicious profiles, approve photos, approve profiles, review approvals, phone and email verification, ID verification and more. One can easily tag NSFW profiles. Real time chat, a mentor program, P2P (in-house) payments and a showcase blog. Fstop’s clear focus is to make the task of finding the right person, within the right niche quicker and easier than ever before, and I believe it achieves its goal.

Fstop clearly needs a little time to breath and from some user reviews a fair amount of time to debug their app, however the app isn’t broken. I also feel that Fstop needs to make a clear statement about their identity confirmation policy and how they intend to stop those with malicious intent, however this may be merely a non-issue (comments welcome on that).

So, other than a few minor hitches, that are relatively the norm for any up-and-coming/in-development app, so what one should be doing is focusing on what Fstop is bringing to the table, nothing relatively new per-say, what it is doing though is taking previous ideas and streamlining them, making them accessible, easy to use and comfortable for any user, including users who are on -the-go, making this the perfect app for any photographer looking for inspiring models, or for models looking for original work, or for -, well, you get the gist.

If you’re new to the world of photographing models, then you might want to also check out Photzy’s course on portrait photography to get you up to speed. 

Check out Fstop here: https://www.fstop.fm/

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