Ich hoffe, Ihr hattet einen schönen Urlaub. Vielleicht habt Ihr auf Eurer Reise auch einige Fotos gemacht? Wir freuen uns immer über Reiseberichte und Dokumentationen aus aller Welt. Bisherige Artikel findet Ihr auch auf unserer Landkarte. Vielleicht entdeckt Ihr dort ja auch Anregungen für Euren nächsten Urlaub?

Linktipps

• Vlad Moldovean beschreibt auf PetaPixel, wie man – ein passendes Smartphone vorausgesetzt – ziemlich günstig sogar mit dem Handy Infrarotfotografie betreiben kann. → ansehen

• Der französisch-venezulanische Fotograf Mathieu Asselin arbeitete fünf Jahre lang in den USA sowie in Vietnam, um sein mehrfach ausgezeichnetes Werk „Monsanto. A Photographic Investigation“ fertigzustellen. In seinem Shop gibt’s das Buch jetzt als kostenlosen digitalen Download. → ansehen

• Anlässlich einer Ausstellung in Newcastle zeigt Ankerherz einige Arbeiten von Chris Killip, der das Leben der Menschen in Werftarbeiterstädten im Norden Englands in den 1970er Jahren dokumentierte. → ansehen

• „404“ ist nicht nur der HTTP-Statuscode für einen defekten Link, sondern tatsächlich auch der Name einer chinesischen Stadt, in der Li Yang geboren wurde. Seit 2005 ist die Stadt verlassen – der Fotograf kehrte zurück und dokumentierte sie. → ansehen

• Alvin Baltrop fotografierte in den 70er Jahren das queere Leben in Manhattan. Nachdem seine Arbeit für fast 40 Jahre kaum Anerkennung erhielt, soll sich das nun mit einer Ausstellung ändern. → ansehen

• MyModernMet stellt die faszinierenden Schwarzweißfotos von Christian Vizl vor, der seit 30 Jahren die Unterwasserwelt fotografiert. Zur Bildstrecke gibt’s auch ein Interview. → ansehen

• Die tschechische Fotografin Markéta Luskačová besuchte in den späten 70er Jahren die raue Küstengegend Nordenglands und hielt das Leben und die Leute dort in Schwarzweißbildern fest, die nach 20 Jahren endlich wiederentdeckt werden. → ansehen

• „Du surfst ja wie ein Mädchen!“ – So hat sicherlich alles angefangen, aber Carolina Amell hat sich den Vorwurf ganz einfach angeeignet und gibt unter dem Titel „Surf Like a Girl“ nun ein Buch mit Profilen und tollen Fotos von 30 Surferinnen heraus. Creative Boom hat die Bildstrecke dazu. → ansehen

• Sean Lewis stellt in einem Beitrag auf SLR Lounge die beeindruckenden Sturmfotos von Elisabeth Brentano und Kelley DeLay vor – die übrigens mit viel Geduld entstehen und die beiden nur selten in echte Gefahr bringen. → ansehen

• VICE zeigt die Arbeiten von Jean-Michel Landon, der Sozialarbeiter ist und den Alltag am Pariser Stadtrand fotografiert, und kredenzt dazu auch ein ausführliches Interview mit dem Fotografen. → ansehen

Buchempfehlungen

„Vivian Maier: The Color Work“ : Nach der Entdeckung des Archivs von Vivian Maier wurden vor allem ihre Schwarzweißaufnahmen bekannt. Dieses Buch ist die bislang größte Sammlung von Maiers Farbfotos. Erschienen ist es im Verlag Harper Design und kostet 48,99 €.

„Girls and Their Cats“ : Für die New Yorker Fotografin BriAnne Wills ist die „Crazy Cat Lady“ ein Mythos. Das Buch definiert das Klischee neu, indem es 50 starke, unabhängige und künstlerische Frauen vorstellt, die die Welt in Angriff nehmen und von ihren geliebten Katzen flankiert werden. Erschienen ist das Buch im Verlag Abrams & Chronicle Books und kostet 19,80 €.

Ausstellungen

GREENPEACE PHOTO AWARD
Zeit: 28. August – 3. November 2019
Ort: f³ – freiraum für fotografie, Waldemarstr. 17, 10179 Berlin

Das Meer
Zeit: 29. August – 6. Oktober 2019
Ort: GAF Galerie für Fotografie, Seilerstr. 15 D, 30169 Hannover

Jeffrey Ladd: The awful german language
Zeit: 30. August – 6. Oktober 2019
Ort: Fotoraum Köln, Herderstr. 88, 50935 Köln

Werner Bischof
Zeit: 30. August – 17. November 2019
Ort: Leica Galerie, Gerichtsgasse 9a, 78462 Konstanz

Drüben auf Instagram

@martyvazquez01 – Unsere heutige Empfehlung führt uns nach Mexiko, wo Marty Vazquez auf den Straßen fotografiert.

Videos

Jamie Windsor meint, man sollte Nostalgie in der Fotografie nicht mit tatsächlich emotionalen Inhalten verwechseln und daher lieber direkt vermeiden.

Tony Lucianis Mutter Elia zog wieder bei ihm ein, als sie wegen fortgeschittener Demenz nicht mehr allein leben konnte. Daraus hat sich ein gemeinsames Fotoprojekt entwickelt.

Das Titelbild kommt von Brooke Lark. Vielen Dank!

Sourced by Time Trap Photography sharing the best photography tips, news and tricks throughout the industry. Time Trap Photography is dedicated to freezing those special moments in life that can be revisited and admired for generations to come. - Shannon Bourque
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Das Bild des Tages von: Geerd-Olaf Freyer

Sourced by Time Trap Photography sharing the best photography tips, news and tricks throughout the industry. Time Trap Photography is dedicated to freezing those special moments in life that can be revisited and admired for generations to come. - Shannon Bourque
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First published June 2010

Co-authored by Dahlia Ambrose

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ISO can be confusing, especially to everyone just starting out in photography. To put it simply, the ISO setting in your camera affects how sensitive the sensor is to light.

If you love mathematics, you can immerse yourself in the technical information on Wikipedia – it is quite good.  But, we won't be delving into the maths here. In this article, we will focus more on choosing the right ISO setting for your specific shot. 

The correct ISO can make your photo; the wrong ISO can ruin it.

ISO on most cameras starts at 100, some cameras begin at 50, but the lower the number, the less sensitive to light, the higher the number, the more sensitive.  While that seems pretty straight forward, there is a price to pay as you go higher in the ISO settings, digital noise. 

Something to remember is that High ISO film has visible grain, and this may be somewhat desirable for photographers.  On the whole, digital noise, the equivalent to grain for digital photographers is not a welcome addition to photographs.

Unlike most settings in your camera, like shutter speed and aperture, changing the ISO probably won't be noticeable when you review images on the LCD.  The digital noise will show up when you view and edit your photos on a computer. Ideally, you want the lowest ISO setting possible for the least amount of noise, but in any given lighting situation that's not always an option.

What is ISO on a Camera?

ISO denotes film or an image sensor's ability to capture light and is a factor that helps with taking well-exposed images. It is a measure of the camera's ability to capture light, whether darker or brighter depending on the value you choose.

For example, you can check this on your camera – increasing or decreasing the ISO value, keeping other factors constant can make the image brighter or darker. It is one of the factors that affect exposure (besides aperture and shutter speed) in an image if you know and understand the exposure triangle. 

When it comes to film, ISO is an indication of the light sensitivity of the film. Film is coated in light-sensitive layers of silver halide crystals. The larger the crystals, the more light-sensitive and therefore quicker the film – but this, in turn, means more grain. Finer crystals mean lower sensitivity to light and, as such, less grain. A lower ISO film will have virtually unnoticeable grain. 

ISO is somewhat different in digital cameras; here, the light that falls on the sensor is converted into electrical signals for processing. So increasing the ISO value will amplify the signal. The lower the ISO, the less digital amplification which means, less boosting of the light leading to minimal digital noise. With an increase in ISO, the amplification increases and, as a result, this causes more noise that can, at higher values, degrade image quality.

So you should only increase the ISO in situations where you cannot increase the exposure via aperture and/or shutter speed.

What is the Purpose of ISO?

The purpose of ISO is to get the exposure right for sharp and creative photography.

For example, by increasing the ISO for a given scenario, you can:

1. achieve faster shutter speeds to freeze motion,
2. gain a larger or deeper depth of field to get more of the scene in focus,
3. shoot handheld in lowlight conditions,

But, you may have to compromise on image quality when you choose higher ISO values such as:

1. loss of dynamic range,
2. increased noise 
3. colour degradation

ISO decreases or increases the brightness of a photograph, depending on the value we choose.

How to Choose ISO?

ISO  is helpful when you are shooting at different lighting conditions more importantly in low light. Increasing the ISO will also introduce noise in your images – the higher the ISO, the higher the noise with a corresponding decrease in image quality.

Digital cameras perform well at low ISO values, produce accurate colours, smooth images and sharp details. Shooting at low ISO values is only possible if there is enough light to compensate or when you are taking long-exposure photographs. But, when you want to shoot wildlife, sports and other fast-moving subjects, or if you have low light conditions, you will need a faster shutter speed. This is when you will want to increase your ISO to have a faster shutter speed for correct exposure so you can eliminate blur due to movements. 

So how should you choose ISO values? Here are some suggestions for handheld shooting without a flash. Each camera performs differently at higher ISO values, so test your camera before using high ISO values.

• When you are shooting in bright light, you have a lot of light available so choose lower or the lowest ISO value. Stay between 100 to a maximum of 200
• When shooting landscapes or long exposures during the day, shoot at ISO 100 or below depending on the native ISO values available. You can choose a low ISO because you will have your camera on a tripod. The low ISO value will ensure that when you print your images, they will look great at any size. 
• Even on a bright day, you may need to increase the ISO to about 200 to 400 sometimes to shoot with the correct shutter speed for sharp images. Scenarios would include shooting in the shade or shooting wildlife, especially birds and animals in shady areas of the trees
• On cloudy or overcast days, you will have less light compared to bright sunny days. So choose a slightly higher ISO value. A maximum value of 400 should be more than enough, but then it also depends on the aperture value and shutter speed you will require.
• When shooting indoors in natural light, you are again dealing with the available light. So depending on the intensity of the light source, you will need to think about your ISO value. If you are shooting in direct bright light, you can use between 100 to 400, but if it is indirect, diffused light, you may want to go up to 800. 
• Low light conditions are a different beast. Lighting conditions such as indoors at night, events, outdoors at night, etc., will need a higher ISO. If you are using aperture values like f/1.8, you can start with ISO 800. Depending on light conditions, you may want to use about 1600, or even above, to get the exposure right. 
• Setting higher ISO values should be considered as a last resort in situations where you want to capture the photo and need a higher ISO for that situation. 

The above suggestions can vary with the focal length and aperture used. Note that, each time you double the ISO, the camera only needs half the amount of light to make the same exposure. So for example, if you got a shot at ISO 100 and shutter speed 1/250s, then at ISO 200 you can shoot the same image at 1/500s provided that you do not change the aperture value.

When using a tripod, if your shooting scenario is good for long exposure, then go for the lowest ISO possible. When it comes to night sky photography, you may not be able to work with very low ISO values like 100 or 200 as you want to eliminate star trails. So based on your shutter speed, you will have to do test shots and choose the lowest ISO that will help you get correctly exposed images. Remember different cameras with different sensors, respond differently to ISO values.

So how high can you go with ISO values? 

Setting the correct ISO value is trial and error. Test which ISO values get you the shot you are after. Use higher ISO values when you want to freeze actions or avoid camera shake due to slow shutter speed when hand-holding the camera. But as much as possible, always use the lowest ISO for any situation. Wherever possible, keep your ISO lower or, if possible, use base ISO and shoot using a tripod.

What is Expandable ISO?

In recent years, digital cameras are being manufactured with a specification called expandable ISO. So, what is expandable ISO? 

A camera's sensor has a range of ISO values within which it will produce good to acceptable quality images – this is called the native ISO. But, there are times when photographers may want to go beyond the native range or extend/expand it – for example, requiring more light in very dimly lit situations. Some cameras come with an option to expand the native ISO by a stop or two, so the amount of light recorded by the sensor increases. For example, if the maximum native ISO value on a camera is 6400, the expanded ISO will be 12800 aiding with doubling the amount of light reaching the sensor. 

Note: Similar to extending beyond the highest native value, there are also options to go below the native ISO value of 100 or 200 in most cameras. This does not degrade the image quality by affecting the colours, or dynamic range like the higher ISO values do.

How Does Expandable ISO Work?

The camera digitally expands the native ISO value by metering the light for the highest native ISO value and then it amplifies that data for the expandable ISO value. This is done digitally via software and not hardware. There is a considerable trade-off to this feature, which is poor image quality with a lot of noise, inferior colours, and loss of dynamic range. So as much as possible, try to stay within the native range. But in case you need that important photo and need to expand the ISO, then make use of this feature – a noisy photo is better than no photo.

To understand the above concept even better – think of the native ISO and expandable ISO like optical zoom and digital zoom on a camera.

To Wrap It All Up

Sunny days, outside, ISO 100 will be wonderful. If you are noticing a lot of detail in the shadow area of your photos with your naked eye that you aren't seeing when you review files on the LCD on the back of the camera, bump the ISO up to 200 or even 400.

Indoor photography can be tricky, artificial light combined with natural light coming through the windows can result in constant monitoring and adjusting the ISO level.  What looks excellent at ISO 400 in one room might require ISO 800 in the next place.

If you're using a tripod, use the lowest ISO setting possible.  You can get away with a longer shutter speed because the tripod will stop all motion blur of the camera.

Using a flash can help keep the ISO low and your photos noise-free in a lot of situations.  Likewise, if the depth of field isn't a concern for you, opening up the aperture will allow more light in, giving a lower ISO option.

When shooting at particularly high ISO settings be mindful of proper exposure.  Post-production of high ISO shots that weren't properly exposed to the best of your ability start to fall apart.  Particularly when adjusting the exposure or contrast levels, digital noise is enhanced, often resulting in an unpleasing image.

Noise isn't always bad, though!  One of the most brilliant aspects of film noir styled photographs is the grain in them.  Low key black and white images with lots of grain can be a good thing if they are exposed well, and the subject matter holds up to it.

The key to choosing the correct ISO is determining what factors need to be appropriately emphasized.  Most people strive for little to no digital noise. So shooting at the lowest ISO is usually the best bet – unless a film noir style is more for your liking.   

Since no guide can give you exacting settings, I suggest you bracket shoot ISO in a number of scenarios. Then you can compare the photos in post-production so you can best see what happens with your particular camera.  ISO is one of the few things you can't correct in post-production because you shoot in RAW mode too. If you accidentally take photos on a sunny day at ISO 3200, you are going to have lots of digital noise. 

Further Reading:

Further Learning:

So you've got a new DSLR, but you aren't getting the most out of it? Take a look at the DSLR Crash Course. This is a course where you will be taken by the hand and led step-by-step in discovering photography skills using your DSLR.

In the DSLR Crash Course you will learn:

• How you can get the correct exposure in any situation.
• A practical in-depth breakdown of ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed.
• Handling difficult backlighting
• Discover what metering modes are and how you can effectively use them to create the images you want, every time.
• The Focus, Lock, and Recompose Method
• Choosing The “Correct” Auto-focusing Mode
• How to effectively Control Shutter Speed using Aperture Priority
• Understanding Depth of field, so you can create those highly desirable images with amazing background blur.
• And much more…

GET THE DSLR CRASH COURSE HERE

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Das Bild des Tages von: Sunny Herzinger

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The Photoshop curves adjustment tool is one of the most important tools in post-processing arsenal for nature photography. When you understand how to use the power of the curves adjustment, you can make selective changes to the color, luminosity, and contrast of your nature photos in a non-destructive way. There is also a curves adjustment available in Lightroom, but using it in Photoshop allows you to use the power of layers and layer masks to very selectively alter your image and therefore, it’s my preferred way of using curves adjustment.

The curves graph is essentially a representation of all the tonal ranges in the image, from black to white. It can be thought of as a histogram with a diagonal line drawn through it, allowing you to change output values as you wish.

Using the Curves Adjustment in Photoshop

There are two ways to access the Photoshop curves adjustment tool in Photoshop: Image-Adjustment-Curves or as a Curves Adjustment layer (either in the top menu or below the layers panel.) You are better served using the Curves Adjustment layer because it puts the changes you make on their own layer with a layer mask already applied, setting you up for an easy and non-destructive way to delicately edit your image.

Let’s take a look at an image in Photoshop with a curves adjustment layer added but not altered.

Original Image, Histogram, and curves adjustment tool by Jane Palmer

Because the histogram clearly shows that this image is underexposed, we can set a white point using curves to brighten up the image. Simply move the right top part of the diagonal line until it reaches the edge of the curve showing where the brightest pixels are. There is no need to adjust the black point because the edge of the histogram already reaches the left side of the graph.

• 

  Curves adjustment in Photoshop showing how to brighten the image by moving the white point by Jane Palmer

• 

  Nature photo after white point adjustment using Photoshop curves adjustment

Note that the brightening of the image was done on the RGB curve. This is where you can do global adjustments to your image. Brighten or darken it, or increase contrast by creating a classic s-shaped curve. Points can be added along the line to allow you to change various places along the curve while maintaining the position of the other points.

Photoshop curves adjustment tool with white point adjustment and an s-curve adjustment to brighten up your photo.

Adjusting Individual Color Channels

So far the adjustment we have made have all been to the RGB curve. But realize that Photoshop curves tool also can manipulate individual color channels of red, green, and blue. This allows you to modify the amount of these colors in the image. For instance, if you raise the curve in the red channel, the entire image becomes warmer. The red channel controls red and cyan, the green channel controls green and magenta, and the blue channel controls blue and yellow. The power of these adjustments resides in their use as selective adjustments using Photoshop Layers & Masks.

For instance, if you want to increase the red in a single tree in an autumn image, do the following:

1. Add a curves adjustment layer.
2. Choose the red channel.
3. Raise the curve up to add red to the entire image.
4. Because we only want the color on tiny parts of the image, invert the mask with Cmd/Cntrl I. This makes the mask black and hides the adjustment.
5. Simply paint on the adjustment where you desire.
   I usually use a very low opacity brush, soft-edged and with low flow, building up the effect slowly so that I can get just the effect I want. If I make an error, I can just paint in black and remove the effect from the area where I don’t wish it to be. Pulling down on the red curve increases the amount of cyan in the photograph.

• 

  Photoshop Curves Adjustment Layer with selective masking

• 

  Photoshop curves tool showing red channel adjustment for nature photography by Jane Palmer

• 

  Final image after red channel adjustment in Photoshop Curves tool.

By raising the curve in the red channel, I was able to enhance the color of the trees and the reddish brown rocks so that this end result more closely resembled the scene as I remember it.

It is important to realize that Photoshop curves adjustment tool lets you make multiple adjustment at the same time. This allows you to make overall tonal adjustment as well as color adjustment in single step. You can then combine this with layer masks and selectively apply these adjustment to your nature photos.

The power of curves lies in their non-destructive way to add subtle changes to the image. You can fine-tune tiny parts of the photograph as well as add global changes until the final photograph tells your story. Explore using curves in your post-processing without fear because they can always be changed with the mask, opacity, or even deleted until you are happy with the end result. For me, I use curves on almost every image that I process.

About Author Jane Palmer

Jane Palmer divides her time between being a Nurse Anesthetist and a landscape and underwater photographer. A lifelong passion for nature and animals led her to spend more time outdoors with her camera, observing animal behavior and photographing them in action. She has been an avid underwater photographer for 10 years and recently began teaching photography. She often leads dive trips to exotic locations and assists divers who want to learn more about underwater photography. Jane currently lives in St. Louis MO with her husband, who loves scuba diving as well. Jane’s strong background in Lightroom and Photoshop allows her to help her underwater students get the most out of their images. So whether she is hiking in the Smokies or scuba diving in the Philippines, you can be sure Jane has her camera in hand to capture the beauty that nature provides for us.

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Nachdem ich diese Wald- und Wiesenansichten von zumeist etwas wilder Natur, die sich direkt neben unseren menschengemachten Kulturlandschaften ausbreitet, zusammengestellt hatte, fiel mir auf, dass sich bei den meisten der Fotos gar nicht sagen lässt, wo sie aufgenommen wurden – oder wo nicht.

Manche der Aufnahmen haben ein gewisses je ne sais quoi, das sie leicht exotisch wirken lässt, sodass ich annehme, dass sie eher weiter weg von Mitteleuropa aufgenommen wurden. Aber genauer festmachen kann ich es gar nicht – und möglicherweise ist es tatsächlich nur dem gewählten Bearbeitungsstil geschuldet.

So wird die Natur, wie Ihr sie hier sehen könnt, zu einer Art Zufluchtsort, den ich überall auf der Welt finden und aufsuchen kann. Wälder, Wiesen und Gestrüpp sind also überall ein kleines bisschen anders – manchmal sehne ich mich nach dem Geruch der sandigen brandenburger Kiefernwälder – und doch überall eine Art Zuhause.

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© @anne_schwerin

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© @lightshiftphotography

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© @ipoetry

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Ihr möchtet selbst ein Bild einreichen? Dann nutzt auf Instagram den Hashtag #instakwer und vielleicht seid Ihr schon beim nächsten Mal mit dabei.

Sourced by Time Trap Photography sharing the best photography tips, news and tricks throughout the industry. Time Trap Photography is dedicated to freezing those special moments in life that can be revisited and admired for generations to come. - Shannon Bourque
Please visit our main site for booking availability and rates.

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