Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Testbericht: Fuji XPro-2

10:06:00 PM

Berge über Wolken im Sonnenuntergang

Ein Beitrag von: Patrick Pfaff

Wieder einmal ging es für mich und meine Freundin raus aus der tristen Großstadt, weg von Lärm, Dreck und Gestank. Unser Herz schrie nach den Bergen und somit packten wir unsere sieben Sachen zusammen und machten uns auf den Weg Richtung Schweiz, die man schon fast unser zweites zu Hause nennen kann. Mit an Bord war ein neuer Begleiter, die Fuji XPro-2 mit dem 18 mm f/2 und dem 35 mm f/2 , was man natürlich umrechnen muss, da es eine APS-C-Systemkamera ist.

Auch bekam ich von Fuji als Support das XF 100–400 mm f/4.5–5.6 zugeschickt, was mit seinen fast 2 kg nicht gerade leicht ist. Stets nutzte ich Kameras der Marke Canon und Objektive der hochgelobten SIGMA-Art-Reihe, doch diese waren auf Dauer einfach zu unhandliche Begleiter und nahmen viel zu viel Platz im Gepäck ein, also musste etwas Neues her.

Berge über Wolken im SonnenuntergangEin Haus auf einem Berggipfel unter einem Regenbogen

Durch meinen guten Freund Tobias Urban lernte ich die XPro-2 von Fuji kennen und verliebte mich sofort in sie. Sie ist klein, leicht, sieht retro aus und die Objektive passen in jede Jackentasche. Grund genug, sich diese einmal genauer anzuschauen. Nach genauerem Betrachten entschied ich mich für den Kauf dieser schönen Systemkamera.

Anfangs war die Bedienung des ISO-Rads für mich etwas gewöhnungsbedürftig, gerade im Dunkeln. Jedoch kann man sich eine Abhilfe mit der automatischen ISO-Einstellung verschaffen. Nichtsdestotrotz hoffe ich, dass Fuji ein Update herausbringt, mit dem es möglich ist, die ISO über das Quick-Menü einzustellen.

Eine Person blickt über Wolken im Sonnenuntergang

Unsere Reise begann in Appenzell, von dort aus machten wir uns auf den Weg auf 1924 Meter Höhe und fanden uns auf dem Schäfler wieder. Die Tour dauerte knapp sechs Stunden und bot atemberaubende Kulissen. Das war das Startsignal für meine neue XPro-2! Auf dem Weg dorthin war das Wetter zum größten Teil nicht auf unserer Seite, es bot sich uns ein Schauspiel von Regen, Unwetterfronten, Nebel und dichten Wolken. Oben angelangt, sah das leider nicht viel besser aus, da wir nur eine weiße Wand vor uns hatten und somit nichts mehr vom Alpsteingebirge sahen.

Dies veränderte sich bis in die Abendstunden nicht. Ab und zu glaubten wir, einen Lichtblick zu sehen, doch dieser hielt meist nur für wenige Minuten. Doch gegen 20:30 Uhr klärte sich der Himmel auf und es bot sich uns ein so fantastischer Sonnenuntergang, wie man ihn sonst nur aus dem Bilderbuch kennt. Sofort griff ich nach meiner Kamera, um diesen wundervollen Moment festzuhalten. Der Zeitpunkt war gekommen, meine Fuji auf Herz und Nieren zu testen.

Berge über Wolken im Sonnenuntergang

Nachbearbeitetes Foto.

Berge über Wolken im Sonnenuntergang

Unbearbeitetes Foto.

Da sie schon auf dem Weg nach oben ein angenehmer, kaum bemerkbarer Begleiter war, der mich schon bei schlechtem Wetter überzeugte, freute ich mich jetzt umso mehr, sie zum Einsatz zu bringen. Um den perfekten Blick zu bekommen, wanderten wir auf den Gipfel des Schäflers, wo sich uns der Sonnenuntergang in voller Pracht darbot. Zuerst nutze ich mein Fuji 18 mm f/2 und schoss damit die ersten Landschaftsaufnahmen.

Früher nutzte ich das SIGMA 24 mm Art für meine Landschaftsaufnahmen und muss sagen, dass ich bis auf den Autofokus, der etwas langsamer ist, nichts Negatives auszusetzen habe. Für Portraitaufnahmen benutze ich das 35 mm f/2 von Fuji, das mich positiv überraschte, was das Bokeh angeht. Zu Anfang zweifelte ich daran, dass das Fuji 35 mm mit seiner Blende f/2 mir vom Bokeh her ausreichen würde, da ich das Bokeh von meinen SIGMA-Art-Objektiven stets geliebt habe, wie vermutlich viele Fotografen.

Auch mit dem 18 mm versuchte ich mich an Portraitaufnahmen, aber muss jedoch sagen, dass mir das Bokeh bei diesem absolut nicht ausreicht, deswegen greife ich in solchen Fällen dann doch lieber auf das 35 mm zurück. Natürlich könnte man auch auf die Fuji-Objektive mit der Blende f/1.4 zurückgreifen, jedoch sind sie für meinen Geschmack deutlich zu groß im Gegensatz zur Kamera und hauen mich optisch einfach nicht um.

Sternenhimmel über BergenBerge über Wolken im Sonnenuntergang

Nach einem wunderschönen Sonnenuntergang hatten wir noch das Glück einer sternenklaren Nacht und nutzten sie gleich mit. Für mich gab es keinerlei Probleme, die Sterne und die Milchstraße zu fotografieren, alles funktionierte einwandfrei, so wie ich es von meiner Canon schon gewohnt war. Vom ISO-Verhalten bei Nacht war ich mehr als begeistert.

Auf der Reise hatte ich den direkten Vergleich zum Vorgänger der Fuji XPro-2, da meine bessere Hälfte Besitzerin einer XPro-1 ist und ich muss sagen, was den elektronischen Sucher angeht, hat Fuji wirklich einen Schritt nach vorn gemacht, denn wenn ich durch den elektronischen Sucher der XPro-1 schaue, habe ich das Gefühl, durch einen Camcorder zu gucken.

Zwei Personen stehen neben einem Lagerfeuer in einer Höhle unter Sternenhimmel

Schon die Bildqualität der Fuji XPro-1 war meiner Meinung nach sehr gut und hat sich bei der XPro-2 in einigen Punkten verbessert, wie zum Beispiel beim Rauschverhalten. Nichtsdestotrotz muss ich sagen, dass mir die Anordnung der Knöpfe bei der XPro-1 etwas besser gefällt, da sie leichter und schneller zu bedienen sind. Der größte Vorteil ist in meinen Augen, dass ich die ISO über das Quick-Menü verändern kann, was ich mir, wie schon oben erwähnt, bei der Fuji XPro-2 wünschen würde.

Fazit: Der Kauf der Fuji XPro-2 und die Kurzreise in die Schweiz haben sich für uns mehr als gelohnt und ich würde die Kamera nie wieder aus den Händen geben. Sie ist leicht und kompakt, die Farben überzeugen mich schon „out of cam“, so dass ich nicht mehr viel machen muss und das Fotografieren fängt an, wieder richtig Spaß zu machen.

Eine junge Frau steht vor einer Bergkette

Ich kann die Kamera jedem ans Herz legen, der viel unterwegs ist und auch wie ich ein Naturbursche ist. Klar muss man einige Abstriche machen, aber in diesem Punkt muss jeder für sich selbst entscheiden, worauf man Wert legt und worauf nicht.


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Time Trap Portrait Instagram Photo - August 31, 2016 at 04:10PM

4:10:00 PM


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4 Common Lighting Styles to Get the Perfect Portrait

12:12:00 PM

When you begin doing portrait lighting for the first time, the general advice you get is to put your light at 45º to your subject, and aim it down at 45º. It’s a quick way to get something reasonably good, without a lot of understanding. With a little more knowledge, you can make better lighting decisions, and get more dramatic images.

4 Common Lighting Styles to Get the Perfect Portrait

Light has four main properties:

  1. Quantity
  2. Quality
  3. Color
  4. Direction

In this article, we’re looking at direction of light only. If you look at the work of the Masters in painting, you’ll notice that they go to great pains to create light and shadow through their brush strokes. You can of course translate these to your own lighting. So let’s look at the different portrait lighting styles or patterns you can use.

To be able to see these patterns, your subject should be facing the camera. The key to seeing what’s happening is to pay attention to what the shadow is doing, especially the nose shadow.

Short Lighting with a Butterfly pattern.

Short lighting style

For this setup, I’ve used an Elinchrom BXR500 with a 44cm white beauty dish. The deflector is translucent, and I’ve added a grid to control the spill of the light. The Camera was a Fujifilm X-T10 with a Fujinon 18-55 lens.

The Portrait Lighting Styles

1. Butterfly Lighting

Butterfly lighting refers to the shape of the shadow under the nose that this pattern creates. It’s meant to look like a butterfly in flight, viewed from straight on. It’s also called Paramount lighting when used with guys to sound more masculine. If you look at the work of 30s and 40s Hollywood photographers like George Hurrell, you’ll see this lighting style in operation.

Classical Lighting Patterns 01

The basic butterfly portrait lighting, with no reflector.

First you should place your light on a boom stand, and position it so it creates a line between you, the light, and your subject. Your light should be high enough to create the butterfly shadow. If it’s too low, you won’t get a shadow and the light will be too flat. If it’s too high, you’ll have the nose shadow will cut into the lip.

As you look into the eyes of your subject, make sure you can see a reflection of your light. This reflection is called a catchlight, and helps give life to the eyes. If you cannot see the catchlight, lower your light a bit.

Classical Lighting Patterns 02

The basic butterfly portrait lighting, with silver reflector.

With Butterfly Lighting, it’s common practice to put a reflector (or even another light at lower power) underneath the chin to bounce light back up. This helps soften the look, and reduces the shadows caused by your light position. You’re not trying to overpower the light from above, as doing this will cast shadow upwards on the face, which isn’t particularly flattering.

Classical Lighting Patterns 03

Behind the scenes shot of the basic butterfly lighting, with a reflector.

2. Loop Lighting

For Loop Lighting, you’re looking for a loop shaped nose shadow. Move your light to the left, or light from the centre. You’ll see the shadow change shape. With Loop Lighting, the nose shadow shouldn’t touch the shadow side of the cheek.

Classical Lighting Patterns 04

Loop Lighting

You should aim to have the bottom of the nose shadow about halfway between the lip and the nose in position. With Loop lighting, you’ve got two main options for filling in shadows. You can use a reflector, or a second light from the opposite side of the face as the key light, or you can use an on axis (behind the camera) fill light (like a ring light or an Octabox).

3. Rembrandt Lighting

If you move the key light around a farther, the nose shadow will meet the cheek. Some refer to this as closed loop lighting, with the normal Loop Lighting being referred to as open loop lighting. From a technical standpoint, Rembrandt Lighting usually has a higher light position than closed loop lighting, but for most the term Rembrandt refers to any light that creates a triangle of light below the eye opposite the light source.

Classical Lighting Patterns 05

Rembrandt Lighting

You can probably guess that the name is based on the work of the painter Rembrandt. A lot of his portraits were painted while the subject was lit from a skylight or high window, giving that famous look.

Classical Lighting Patterns 06

Behind the scenes making a Rembrandt Lighting.

4. Split Lighting

You’ve moved the light slowly from straight on, and your final light style is when the light is perpendicular to the camera. You’re lighting only one half of the face. One of the most famous uses of this is The Beatles album ‘With The Beatles’, where all four members are split lit. You should only be able to see one eye in the shot for this pattern (the other will be in shadow).

Classical Lighting Patterns 07

Split Lighting.

Classical Lighting Patterns 08

Behind the scenes for Split Lighting.

Broad and Short Lighting

To show how the patterns work, you’ve shot straight on to your subject. In real life this is only one view that you’d capture. By turning the face to the side you get even more options. When the face is at an angle, there are two parts of the face visible, the broad side, and the short side. The broad side is the one nearest you, from the ear to the nose. The short side is the small bit of the side facing away from you, that you can actually see.

By aiming the light at the broad side of the face, you see the face in detail, with very little shadow. On the other hand, if you light the short side of the face, you get more shadow. These lighting positions are referred to as Broad and Short Lighting respectively.

You can use Short Light to flatter heavier subjects, as the shadow tends to hide weight in the face. Broad lighting is better for thinner people, and is often used in fashion. For the Short Light example, the light was in the same position as our Split Lighting, the model has just been turned towards the light. For Broad Lighting, you can have it any where in front, though for this example, it was off to camera right.

Classical Lighting Patterns 09

Broad Lighting (main light is to camera right).

Classical Lighting Patterns 10

Short Lighting (main light is to camera left, closer to the background than the subject).

Creating Drama

The trick to creating drama is to use shadow effectively. For this reason Short Lighting is the best option. You can use each pattern in a short light fashion.

Remember at the start, you were told to pay attention to the nose shadow? For Butterfly, you’re still looking for the butterfly shadow. The light will be directly in front of your subject’s nose to get this. As you move the light away, towards Loop position, it’ll start to become more dramatic. You can even do a Rembrandt portrait for really dramatic effect.

Classical Lighting Patterns 11

Rembrandt Lighting, Short lit with no fill.

Classical Lighting Patterns 12

Rembrandt Lighting, Short lit with silver reflector fill.

So that’s how to use common portrait lighting styles or patterns. You should get familiar with them, and as you look at magazines and online, you’ll start to see them in use.

Examples of Portait Lighting in photos

Classical Lighting Patterns 16

Short Lit Loop Light

Classical Lighting Patterns 14

Split Lighting

Classical-Lighting-Patterns-13.jpg

Butterfly Lighting

Short Lighting with a Butterfly pattern.

Short Lighting with a Butterfly pattern.

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City of Trees Music Event On September 10th Another exciting event is on the horizon and I'll be down in the media pit so if you see me, give me a shout and say hello. This years' lineup is another epic one: Weezer, Panic! At The Disco, Phantogram, Andrew McMahon in the Wilderness, The Struts, 888, The Unlikely Candidates, The Rebel Light, Kungs (DJ set), Arden Park Roots, The Color Wild, Cemetery Sun, Young Aundee, Trophii, Zephyr, Druskee, Joy and Madness, Pacific Skyway, Joseph One, and DJ Oasis. Image of CAKE taken by yours' truly: #timetrap_events #cityoftrees2016 #sacramentomusic #localartisttoo #supportlocal timetrapphotography.blogspot.com/ http://ift.tt/2bniCqK http://ift.tt/1LW7xnO

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City of Trees Music Event On September 10th Another exciting event is on the horizon and I'll be down in the media pit so if you see me, give me a shout and say hello. This years' lineup is another epic one: Weezer, Panic! At The Disco, Phantogram, Andrew McMahon in the Wilderness, The Struts, 888, The Unlikely Candidates, The Rebel Light, Kungs (DJ set), Arden Park Roots, The Color Wild, Cemetery Sun, Young Aundee, Trophii, Zephyr, Druskee, Joy and Madness, Pacific Skyway, Joseph One, and DJ Oasis. Image of CAKE taken by yours' truly: #timetrap_events #cityoftrees2016 #sacramentomusic #localartisttoo #supportlocal timetrapphotography.blogspot.com/ http://ift.tt/2bniCqK http://ift.tt/1LW7xnO

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5 Things Newbies Should Know About Getting Started in Photography

7:15:00 AM

Getting started in photography can be quite scary. We all start by investing in a DSLR, and think we are going to take amazing images. In reality it is a bit more difficult, because if it was easy… well everybody would sell prints, quit their day job, and live off photography.

Just like any art, photography has to be learned, and practiced – a lot. It is a trial and error process, we all start at the bottom and build our way up.

5 tips photography 1

If your images do not look like you imagined them, then try a different approach. Just do something. Einstein said that the definition of insanity was doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.

#1 – Gather information and knowledge

Photography is the best hobby you could have, but it is a lot of hard work. I personally don’t believe in talent. The first tip I can give you is to absorb as much information as possible. How do you do that ? Well you have so many free resources on the internet, the only need to take advantage of it. Since you are reading this, then you’re on the right track.

By resources, I mean articles online, magazines, and YouTube tutorials. You can learn so much in less than 30 minutes. One other tip I can also give is to check multiple resources for the same topic.

5 tips photography 2

Read photography magazines. They have amazing stories and tutorials.

For example you want to learn how take portraits – don’t read or watch only one tutorial. The more you research, the more you will learn, because sometimes one article won’t give you all the answers to your questions, but another article will.

You should also anticipate. What I mean by that, is to learn about it, before trying to do something.

For example, say you want to buy a new DSLR. You should learn how to use it before you actually buy it, read reviews and tutorials. If you are planning a trip to the sea, then learn seascape photography before travelling.

5 tips photography 3

Photography is spending hours and hours on research.

#2 – Try all kinds of photography

This brings me to my second tip: don’t focus on only one type of photography. Of course, if you like portrait photography then do that. What I’m trying to say, is that you should explore all the possibilities, before focusing on only one type of photography. Try to add variation by learning about macro photography, landscapes, portraits, wildlife, etc.

You may be surprised by the results you get, and if you never try, you will never know if you actually like photographing birds or not. From my experience, the more you learn, the more you’ll be able to do things. It’s better knowing how to do five things than only one. Starting photography and only wanting to take portraits is not the right mindset. It’s just like food, if you don’t try new food, you will never know if you like it or not.

#3 – Photography is an investment

The third thing you should know is that photography is a big investment. You will need to buy lenses, camera bodies, tripods, and filters, which will end up being quite expensive. If you are not smart with your decisions, then your bank account can end up in tears.

It may seem confusing when I tell you to try different types of photography, but then warn you about buying too much gear. If you want to try macro photography, don’t buy a macro lens right away. Just buy extension tubes (or close-up filters) until you know if you are serious about macro. They cost a lot less, and increase your focusing distance dramatically.

5 tips photography 5

A very inexpensive $30 ND Filter.

For filters, you can buy $20 Neutral Density filters for your landscape photography. Of course they won’t have the same quality as the professional ones, but it’s a good place to start.

I started photography with a phone, then moved up to an entry level DSLR, and now I own a full frame camera. But, it took me four years to go from my phone to full frame, so don’t go out and buy the best DSLR ever, find something that will suit where are you starting first.

5 tips photography 6

Phone photography

Make smart decisions, a normal kit lens is enough to get started in landscape photography.

#4 – Post-processing is a good thing

The fourth tip is about post-processing. Most beginner photographers underestimate the power of post-processing. It can make or break an image, that’s why my first point is important. You have to learn and fail in order to succeed – once you learn how to master software like Lightroom and Photoshop, your photography will become more like a process, because you will automatically think about post-production.

5 tips photography 7 5 tips photography 8

For post-production, I also recommend learning about the same topic from different sources. There are a lot of different ways to do the same thing, you just have to find which way works the best for you. It doesn’t matter how you do it, the important thing is the end result.

For example, for dodging and burning an image I prefer using a curves layer with a mask, but that doesn’t mean I don’t know how to dodge and burn using grey layers.

Post-production can be quite scary because there are so many tools, but once you master a certain software, you will be able to work on your worst shots and get the best out of them.

I would say that post-production is almost indispensable. There are a lot of photographers who want natural photography, but that doesn’t exist. Your colours will get interpreted anyway, it’s up to you to decide if you want your camera to do it automatically, or if you want to take control over everything.

5 tips photography 9

Simple snapshot with my own interpretation of colors.

#5 – Good photographers create depth in their images

The last thing you should know is that photography is all about creating depth. There are many ways of creating depth; you can do it with light and contrast, colours, movement, a solid composition, and with depth of field.

You should aim to have at least one of these elements in your images. If you can mix all these elements in one image, then your result will be even better.

With light and contrast you can play around with shadows, and dodging a burning. The main purpose is to have uneven lighting on purpose – try to avoid flat lighting. Some area should be lighter than others, and some darker. You also want to know which lighting conditions will give you the best results. For example, if you like shooting landscapes then you will want to know that you get the best light during the magic hour (blue hour).

Composition is the most important thing, try to use a foreground, middle ground and a background. The rule of thirds is also really useful to frame your subject in a pleasing way.

5 tips photography 10

With colours, the main purpose is to have tones that go together. Always look at your colour palette and see what works best. This is quite difficult to do, but one tip I can give you, is that when the colours do not look good, convert your image to black and white.

For movement, try long exposures, they are a good way to create a surreal images.

The last thing is depth of field. This is very important if you’re taking portraits, the amount of background blur can completely change an image. If you want to learn about it here’s another article I wrote: How to Achieve Background Blur or Bokeh where I explain three easy ways to achieve a nice bokeh.

IMAGE 2

Summary

So if you’re just getting into photography, consider these five things as you begin your journey. Learn everything you can from multiple sources, try different kinds of photography to see what you like, don’t get caught in gear envy, don’t be afraid of post-processing and remember to add depth to make more interesting images.

Are you further along in photography? What other advice would you offer to new photographers? Please share in the comments below.

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About Us

Time Trap Photography is dedicated to freezing those special moments in life that can be revisited and admired for generations to come. - Shannon Bourque

The lens in focus

“Life is like a camera. Just focus on what’s important and capture the good times, develop from the negatives and if things don’t work out, just take another shot.” — Unknown

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